Sailing 2021 Post cards

Klaus & Trine


Sailing Kalinka 2021 - Post Cards

#Postcard - 5/9 - 9/11

 

The passage to Corsica was about 48 hrs, most of the passage we were motoring due to no wind. The nights were clear and the sky full of stars. Due to lack of sleep, we changed plans several times, during this passage. Originally, we wanted to go to Ajaccio/Corsica, then we changed to Sardinia, and we ended up in Bonifacio/Corsica at 9 o’clock in the morning. Bonifacios is very close to the strait between Sardinia and Corsica. We spent a couple of days in Cala di Paragnanu, a nice little wildlife cove, anchoring at 10 meters. Next stop was Ajaccio, the capital. It was possible to anchor in the centre of the city, close to local market, the old town and shopping. The anchorage is certainly not the most beautiful, but it full fills its purpose, a hideaway from Mistral winds. After exploring the old town for a couple of days, we had a crew member on board. It was a lady in the mid 40´ies, who was set aside from her last boat, due to motor issues. We felt sorry for her and wanted to help in a difficult situation. She stayed with us 17 days. From that we learned that, if we ever will help anybody again, and let them into our sailing home, it must be people that have a little interest in live abord life and sailing, just as a minimum.

During this period with a “blind passenger” we visited nice places at Corsica and sailed to Sardinia. Corsica is absolutely a visit worth; the food and the landscape is amazing; the Corsicans are a very proud people – none of them speaks English and they tell you to speak either Corse or French 😊

Sardinia was lovely, the calas, the nature, the wine, and the food. Also, plenty of English-speaking Italians, trying to do their best, to help us in any matter. We highly recommend Moys Marina in Olbia, on the NE side, where you also find Isola Tavolara, which we visited several times. The island looks like a big Toblerone. The bay where you can anchor, offers clear water and lots of fish. In the “city” (5 houses) you find a nice seafood restaurant. This place was absolutely our favourite place and for sure we will go back, when we decide to leave the Med.

On the E side of Sardinia, we spent some days near Grotte del Bue Marino, which lies 50 nm from Olbia. This place offers crystal clear and turquoise water, and it is a magnificent anchorage. Klaus sister Heidi joined us when we where in Olbia. She is a spear fisher, and this was definitely a great place for her to hunt. Heidi stayed with us 15 days and we sailed from the NE side to the S of Sardinia and stayed a couple of days at the capital Cagliari. Down south, in Golfo di Cagliari you will find a perfect escape hole for the strong Mistral winds. Care is needed when the wind changes to S – the sea in the Golf rises very fast.

On our passage form south Sardinia to Olbia up north, we decided to make a stopover in Marina Arbatax, which is approximal halfway to Olbia from Cagliari. Due to strong winds the last couple of days we had big waves and the wind in the front. This made the passage very uncomfortable. On our way we were hold back for 2 hours due to a military exercise, so we just made circles 500 meters from land – until we were released. Shortly after the motor stopped. Later we noticed that the diesel meter was frozen and the tank empty!!! When we entered the port of Arbatax, in very strong winds, we manged to drown our dinghy. (No harm – we had it out of the water very quickly) What a day!! But sailing and living abord is not always sand, sun and sundowners 😊

On our passage from S to NE we caught 2 tunas. We made tuna steaks on the grill and the popular Sicilian Fresh Tuna meat balls from the web www.the-pasta-project.com This web does not only provide you with a recipe, but the hole story of Tuna fishing, Tuna industry, Tuna workers in Sicily and the first canned Tuna in Europe.

After 15 days with Klaus sister, it was time for new crew members to board Kalinka. So we went back to Moys Marina in Olbia and made a crew change. The airport is only 3 km away from the Marina, and the Marina offers a very good shuttle service. Now it was time for our son Andreas and his friend to make a short holiday. Shortly after they boarded Kalinka we left Olbia for our next passage to mainland Italy. We arrived at Ponza Island the next day in the afternoon. It was very nice to have the opportunity to sleep in the night, because we could makeshift at the helm, due to Andreas’s knowledge of sailing and his education as a navigator. We anchored up in front of the city and enjoyed the stunning view. Next morning, we made a hike in the mountains for 3 hrs. The view around Ponza and all the small islands where amazing – the temperature around 26 degrees, so not too hot to hike. Next stop was Gaeta in the Region Lazio. Gaeta has an interesting history back in the Roman times, today it is a fishing and oil seaport. After 5 days with Andreas and his friend, it was time for them to leave for Rome and catch their flight back to Denmark. Together we took the train and visited Rome and Colosseum. We separated in the evening and took the train back to Kalinka in Gaeta. Though it was 6 great days, it is always sad to say goodbye to close family.

 

In Gaeta Klaus and I got our 2. Covid19 vaccine. It was easy for Klaus, because he had his first one in Sardinia and already had a tax number / code Fiscale. I had my first vaccine in Denmark, so it was a little bit more difficult for me. But after 4 visits at the center I finally got my 2. Vaccine.

 

Next day Klaus´s Uncle and his wife arrived in Gaeta – they had made a road trip with their car from Denmark to us in Italy. It was very pleasant with a car – it gave us the opportunity to visit Pompeii and many other places, such as Sperlunga. After 8 days at Marina Flavio Gioia at Gaeta we left for Ischia. By the way in Gaeta Marina, you will find a very helpful staff and helpful marineros. The service is absolutely worth a visit, the marina also has a small community of sailors staying for the winter. Ischia Island is also known from the book and the series “My brilliant Friend” Ischia offers beautiful nature and a relaxed environment. After Ischia we visited Capri and ended up in Salerno – Marina Arecchi. We picked up the car in Gaeta and took a road trip to the beautiful Amalfi coast and Napoli. In Napoli we picked up our new Genoa and of course we had a nice pizza – Napoli is known as the place where the pizza was founded. Beside that Napoli has a totally crazy traffic 😊 “See Naples and die”

Our next destination was Tropea, close to Sicily – we made stops in San Marco, Maratea and Cetraro on the way. On our trip from Cetraro to Tropea we had to turn around and go back due to very bad weather, which also resulted in the loss of our dinghy. We returned to the little Marina in Maratea and stayed there until the perfect weather window showed up. Klaus’s Uncle and wife had stayed with us for 15 days, and they had to continue their road trip in Italy. They took the train back to Salerno to pick up their car.

While waiting for better weather, Klaus and I did some repairs on the boat. Klaus was in the mast, checking the wind speed sensor, we checked the diesel meter, checked the propeller, repaired a lamp, pumped out the bilges, repaired the gas valve and took some initial measurements for replacing the standing rigging. Beside of that the fishermen in the marina gave us 2 kg of shrimps and we enjoyed a nice “gambas Ajillio”

 

#Postcard - 6/8 - 4/9

 

We arrived at Formentera 6/8 at 14.00 hrs. The water was crystal clear, and we anchored up at 4 meters in Cala Saona. Formentera is the smallest and southernmost island of the Balearics. It is also known as a party island, just as Ibiza which we very quickly discovered – as about 200-day charter boats arrived that afternoon, with tourists from Ibiza. Loud music and parties in every yacht, boat and dinghy. For the first time we experienced, (this continued the entire month of our stay at the Balearics) when you think the anchorage is full and overcrowded, for sure another 50 yachts will anchor up nearby your yacht😊

 

We spend at couple of days at Formentera and decided to head for Ibiza, a short passage for 8 nm. At Ibiza we visited to 2 very nice anchorages, of course overcrowded because of the high season. Es Torrent on the south side and cala Talamanca on the east side. In the last mentioned cala, we had some anchor issues in the middle of the night, due to the wind change, so we had to re-anchor 6 times. Every 30 minutes the wind changed – and it was not at all possible to put out the chain length we wanted to, at the same time the holding was very poor. In that cala all we heard the hole night was anchors going up and down. Though the night was tough – we decided the next day, to visit the old town of Ibiza. It was for sure worth this visit. For a moment you forget about parties and loud music, in the old town you get carried away by the stunning buildings and the castle that protected Ibiza in the old days. When we returned to Kalinka – everything was as it should be.

 

We left Cala Talamanca at sat course for San Antonio on the west side of the island. The passage was extremely beautiful and stunning, a wild landscape with mountains and cliffs. San Antonio has nothing special to offer – small expensive shops and unfriendly marineros in the harbour area – we very quickly decided to leave and sat course for Las Caletas on the north side of Ibiza, a passage of 20nm. The anchorage, the water and the wild nature was breath-taking. That night we reached a night temperature in the boat, around 40 degrees. The warm wind from the mountains passed its way down the hills and ended up in the anchorage – it was a bit insane, and barely not possible to sleep. Due to the southerly wind that had passed the last week, our boat was red inside and outside. We did the whole day some seriously cleaning – in order not to get the red sand stuck at the boat. At the end of the day, the boat was tip top clean and we were ready for our next passage, which followed the next morning, course sat for Mallorca.

 

We departed at 6:00hrs and had a passage of 60nm ahead of us. It was a “gentlemen’s sailing” – downwind all the way. We anchored up in the bay of Palma near Ses Fontanelles – San Antonio. The water was crystal clear and the beach beautiful – the holding was also perfect and plenty of space among the boats. We took the dinghy to Club Maritimo San Antonio and paid 25 Euros for a dinghy stay – 5 hours 😊As you might remember, our code 0 was destroyed when we were at anchor in Sagres. So, we took at taxi to OneSails in Palma and delivered the sail for repair. After that we did some shopping and had lunch at Restaurante La Payesita – an old local restaurant at the harbour. We had the best seafood paella ever. For sure worth a visit if you ever go there. The next day we sat sail for the east coast of Mallorca – Sa Rapita / Playa Es Trenc. Again, crystal clear water at the anchorage. The Posidonia, had really done at good job here. Posidonia Oceanica is an endemic Mediterranean plant – not a seaweed. Its meadows clean seawater, and generates oxygen, not only in water, but also in the air. It is declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO. Some places, you get a fine, for dropping your anchor on Posidonia – also if your chain touch it.

 

After a couple of relaxing days at the beach, we sat course for Andratx, a short passage of 32 nm. We anchored up at a mooring in Port Andratx. The Marineras, can be called on the VHF and they are very helpful with everything. Port Andratx is full of restaurants and shops – we actually stayed at a hotel in the port in 2017 – when we participated in Palma de Mallorca Marathon. We spent a couple of relaxing days, enjoyed the good seafood at the restaurants and slept wonderful at the mooring 😊

 

Our next destination was Port Soller a passage of 20 nm. The landscape on the west side of Mallorca is stunning.  The high Mountains, called the Serra Tramuntana, is untamed and majestic. Also well known by cyclists and fore recording advertising for Mercedes and BMW. On the west coast, there are not many places to seek shelter in case of bad weather. The only port is in Soller, and they have a little amount of berths for visitors, but in front of the harbour it is allowed to anchor. We spent 5 days at anchor in Port Soller. Every night was crazy, because of the wind changes during the whole night. All you hear is anchors going up and down, sailors with flashlights that glow in the dark. Everybody must anchor very close – and the difference is the depth and the meters of chain on the bottom. We did not have any problems with our anchor, but a lot of problems with boats anchoring up very close to us, and then leaving the boat the whole day! We moved around in the bay a couple of times and then we decided to buy a new anchor. Our CQR anchor was okey, but very difficult to get set with a short anchor scope. We needed an anchor, that would give us good holding as soon as it hit the bottom. We went for a Rocna Anchor – which could be delivered in Palma, within 7-8 days.

 

At our stay in Port Soller we enjoyed the company from Brian and his crew. We spent a couple of nights with good stories and cold Mojitos. At the 26/8 we left Soller – heading for Port Pollensa. Actually, we wanted to stay in Alcudia Mar, but the port price for at berth per night was about 130 Euros – too much! We also did not know, when the code 0 and the anchor would be ready. Instead, we booked at IBPorts in Pollensa, it is a communal harbour and the price per night 48 Euros. Port Pollensa was perfect, it was the first time we should dock the boat with the stern in and take up the mooring line in front. Old boats, like Kalinka does not manoeuvre as the new boats does, but it worked perfectly. We spent 8 days in Port Pollensa, and it was 8 days full of company, new friendships and updating old friendships. Trine Lived in Alcudia for 4 years back in 2000. Therefore, Mallorca is very well known. Together we visited it several times and there is one special place we always go first, Restaurant Es Verger. Es Verger is placed in the mountains nearby Alaro. It is a family restaurant where they serve Lamb Shoulder, probably the best you get. The lamb lives in the mountains -and they often pass by in the restaurant door. It is very hard to get there, because of the road, which is small, steep and rocky. 2 cars cannot pass at the same time. A lot of people choose to walk! The lamb shoulder is served with potatoes and salad – same as they have done it for over 30 years, nothing has changed. We were happy to see that Antonia, still was going strong and being a part of the restaurant. She is the last remaining elderly person from the family. I can only say “Pay them a visit” After our visit at Es Verger – we did a lot of shopping in Al Campo – as sailors it is nice to have a rent car for just one day 😊

 

On a sunny afternoon we decided to visit Anne & Arne on their Yacht Nirvana, which was anchored up in the bay. We spent a couple of hours, talking about sailing and nice places to visit. It turned out that we knew a lot of the same people in Denmark / Svendborg, though they are from Copenhagen. The next day we invited them to dinner at Kalinka in the harbour. We made a strong garlic white wine stew with mussels and enjoyed each other’s company late into the night.

We made good friends with the boats among us. One crew from Uruguay and another crew from Sweden, Paw and Celina in their new motor yacht Mahana. It is always instructive to hear other sailors’ stories. Each yacht has a story!

Trines friends from her time in Mallorca, Flemming and his foster child Lasse paid us a visit in the harbour – it was very nice to meet them again. Flemming has a very nice apartment in Alcudia, totally new renovated – with a good view over the bay and the pool. We spent some cozy hours on Kalinka and Lasse had a short trip in the dinghy. We made an appointment about having dinner together within a couple of days. We decided to go to, Restaurant Salbufera, where Trine worked 20 years ago, as a hostess in the evenings.

 

Flemming picked us up at the harbour and together we made a little tour down memory lane in Alcudia. We enjoyed a nice G&T at his apartment in Siesta Uno. Our dinner at Salbufera was amazing. For the first the food and the service are probably the best you meet in Alcudia. It was funny to meet the owner Pepe and his wife, also his daughter Maria. The chief cook Miguel and his sister Isabel in the Bar. They come from Andalusia and have worked many many years in Salbufera. If you ever visit Alcudia, you need to pay this restaurant a visit 😊

A couple of days after, Flemming and Lasse was so kind to pick us up and go with us to Palma. Our code 0 was ready and the Rocna anchor has arrived in the store. On our way back, we enjoyed an Italian Pizza in the town of Inca, the town is known for selling leather.

One month has passed at the Balearics – we made a lot of new friend ships, and heard good stories from different lives in different countries, we simply loved it, but the adventure has to continue! So we planed to depart on the 5/9 heading for Corsica a passage of 265 nm.

 

#Postcard – 1/8 – 5/8

We had two stops on the coastline from Fondeadero del morron to Cartagena, one stop in CalaBardina and one in San Pedro, both anchorages were beautiful with surrounding mountains and  crystal clear water. Cala Bardina was however a very special place as we met a local off-grid hippie community where people lived on the beach and the surrounding mountains in their home-made cottages made of re-useable materials, some more primitive than others. There was only access via the sea, so the visitors were sailed out in Dinghies from the nearby port to participate in the beach parties going on all day long. We enjoyed a few Mojitos on the beach and was eyewitness to a true hippie paradise where drinks and music where available in overflow 😊 This is truly a recommended place to visit.

We spent two days in Cartagena safely moored in the city port where we enjoyed talking to other sailors and a few Danish tourists which stopped up for a talk. Cartagena is a beautiful city with a lot of history and by judging on the city centre it was also a wealthy city. When the wind picked up at lunch time the second day, we decided to head towards the Balearic Islands which is a passage of 140 Nm which we enjoyed as we sailed on a beam reach with an average speed of 6 knots.

 

#Postcard - 7/7 - 5/8

Today we had planned sightseeing in Lisbon and went from the marina to the old town by Uber. We went to the Castello de Sao Jorge which was placed on one of Lisbon’s 7 high peaks. The Castle is more than 2000 years old and is one of Lisbon’s oldest buildings. We paid 10 Euro each for the entrance fee and it was worth it due to its stunning view over Lisbon, green parks and nice castle. Later we visited the Christopher Columbus monument which is placed at the entrance to the Tajo River, it appeared a lot bigger from close distance compared to when we passed it on our way to the Marina. Lisbon is a beautiful and colourful place, but Porto remains our favourite.

The next day we went on Uber tour to Montijo where we picked up some deck paint, we had ordered for Kalinka’s deck. It took hours as the traffic was very heavy, and we ended up sitting in queue on the “25 April Bridge”. The bridge is from 1966 and originally named after the prime minister Antonio Salazar, but after the revolution in 1974 its name was changed to “Ponte 25 de Abril” Sitting in queue was not so bad after all as we had a stunning view over Lisbon from the bridge.

 

We went back to Denmark 9/7 – 12/7 for a short period to empty our house in Skovsbostrand as we got the message that there was a buyer for it, while we were docked in A Coruna. We packed all ourstuff and cleaned the house Saturday and Sunday and made it ready for the buyer to take o ver a week later. It was a bit tough but went fine with assistance from family. Monday afternoon we were enjoying a Pizza at Gorms in Copenhagen airport after the exhausting weekend and suddenly we see Otto from X-Yacht Norway that we met in Peniche/Portugal 3 weeks earlier. We agreed to meet again in Mallorca if possible. That was however not the only surprise we got that day as while we were waiting to board the flight we got an email from the Buyers lawyer, explaining that the Buyer would make use of his right to regret the purchase, just 6 hours before the deadline. That was not the best news we had, but as we are on our way to explore the world, we did not let that event pull us down, we were on our way back to Kalinka.

 

We departed from Lisbon 15/7 at 9:30 after we had been waiting for the Marina Lock Gate to open. The Portuguese Northerly was with us, and we arrived at Sines around 20.00 hrs. Arriving in Sines was a beautiful sight as the City is built around the bay which is protected by two large breakwaters to keep the water calm. At the North side there was about 100 fishing boats of various sizes anchored and moored and the Marina was placed at the south side. We decided to anchor right in the middle at 4 meters of water together with 10-12 other cruising boats. Sines town, streets and shops does not have our great interest and seems quite boring. A statue of the great sea farer and explorer Vasco de Gama and a the remaining of an old castle seems to be the highlights of Sines.

 

Vasco de Gama was born in Sines in 1460 and became a globetrotter and mariner of the Royal Navy and after many years of service King Manuel the first made him Admiral of India after he had returned to Portugal several times with shiploads of great values. The beach was nice with clear water with a temperature of around 20 degrees in July.

 

We departed Sines at 06.00 hrs the 18/7 and was racing with 5 other boats as we followed each other closely along the Portuguese coast on beam reach. In the afternoon the wind picked up to 40 Kn and we reduced the sails to continue towards the bay of Sagres where we anchored in 40 Knots wind around 17.00 hrs. An Englishman were already anchored up and a few hours later a German in a LM27 anchored up as well. The anchor held well in the sand although it was not a pleasant night due to roll.

 

The wind had eased off to about 30 knots the next morning and we agreed to continue for only a reduced mainsail instead of taking another night rolling around. It was a nice passage towards Portimao and the reduced speed gave us a chance to catch 5 mackerels which we fried on the barbecue while sailing. We anchored up at the beach in Portimao inside the breakwater together with more than 100 other boats.

The next morning, we launched the dinghy and went to the beach for a swim. We visited the small town Ferragudo which is placed at the other side of Portimao. We were trying to source some lobsters but could only find mussels. Portimao is a real holiday resort which we could also hear and see in the nighttime.

 

We left Portimao the 21/7 around 10.00 Hrs heading for Culatra where we arrived at the anchor bay around 18.00 hrs, anchored up next to several hundred other yachts. Although it was a busy anchorage there was plenty of room and good holding for the anchor. We had some good days at the anchorage with lots of beach tours and dinghy runs to the nearby towns Olhao and Culatra. In Culatra there was a very nice Dinghy dock which gave us possibility to see the Island which reminded of Cuba with the strong coloured houses and relaxed atmosphere.

 

We departed from Culatra 23/7 with the course set for Huelva and thereafter Cadiz where we anchored up in the bay. This part of the trip was purely transit sailing as we had a weather window and tide/current window to catch in order to get pleasant sailing condition from Tarifa and through the Strait of Gibraltar. Although it was just transit sailing there was enough to do onboard, food prepping, cleaning, Orca watching, adjusting sails and navigation.

 

25/7

Today’s leg from Cadiz to Alcadeisa was very special for us as we were sailing through the areas with most Orca Attacks, something all sailors sailing in these areas are talking about. There has been frequent attacks from A Coruna to Gibraltar which can be followed on the homepage www.orcaiberica.org, when checking the homepage we noticed that it was not clear whether it was just Orca observations or actual “attacks” so we wrote them an email and they confirmed that it was attacks, however the most recent attack happened south of Barbate just a few days ago. It was a Swedish boat which was attacked, and we heard their mayday call over the VHF. The Spanish Coastguard assisted them and advised to stop all sailing and swich off all electronics onboard. On top of a possible Orca attack we also had to consider how to act in case of a Piracy attack as our son Andreas who is deck Cadet passed the Straits of Gibraltar onboard Munich Maersk in the same period hearing a mayday call on the VHF from a small sailing boat being attacked by Pirates from North Africa. He advised us to switch off the AIS, however we kept it on as we felt safer and chances for attacks of any kind was after all very limited taking into consideration how many yachts passing the area. The passage itself was also a bit challenging as we had all kinds of weather from the wind ahead us and large waves over no wind and calm seas to 36 knots downwind with 4 knots current pushing Kalinka ahead with 11.5 Knots with reduced sails. We had read that the wind blows strong 300 days a year around Tarifa and today was no exemption. We arrived safely in Spanish Alcadeisa Marina around 19.00 hrs and celebrated our safe arrival with a few nightcaps.

We left Gibraltar the 28/7 at 08.00 hrs with the course set for Estepona. We were in Gibraltar with the family in 2018 so our visit to Gibraltar this time was not so much for sightseeing purpose but more for practicalities as after a period at anchor we needed to fill up Kalinka’s stock of provision again. We had been looking for an ice cube machine since Cherbourg and finally we found one in Gibraltar, so we now got all the luxuries we need such as Watermaker, hot water heater, induction cooking plate, electric fans and microwave oven, all powered from the huge solar panels we installed back in DK. Actually, we have not been connected to shore power since we left Denmark 31 May. There was not much to say about Estepona so we lifted the hook the next morning and headed towards Motril where we found a nice sheltered anchor bay at La Herradura where we enjoyed a beautiful sight of lights from the houses at the beach and in the surrounding mountains, as well as we were listening to music and peoples talk and amusement on the beach.

We left at 6:30 the 30/7 as we had a long day ahead of us in order to reach a safe anchor bay, Playa de Los Genoveses, behind Cabo de Gata as the wind would pick up during the day. We did not see a lot of Costa Del Sol as we were sailing quite far out from the coastline to have steady wind, anyway we did not think we missed anything interesting. When we anchored up in 30 knots of wind, we noticed a German sailor which kept anchoring in different positions.

The water at Playa de Los Genoveses was crystal clear and there were tents at the beach with back packers who visited the nature reserve. The wind would pick up again in the afternoon so vi spent the morning installing the ice maker and fixing a small leak from the diesel tank level sensor. The tank is placed under the bunk in the master bedroom, so it was easy to access but it was also easy to smell the leakage after we filled up the tank completely in Gibraltar. At the same time, we kept an eye on the German boat who had continuously issues with his anchor not holding. At around 14.00 hrs the wind had picked up to 50 knots and the German was struggling significantly and kept re-anchoring in different positions while we were discussing if we should try to get in contact with him to offer him to borrow our spare anchor. He had now anchored up on our port side 6-8 boat lengths away but were dragging in a line where he would risk catching either our anchor or the anchor of a Dutch boat anchored up to our Portside aft of us. While the Dutchman is shouting at the German to get away from his anchor we heard a flapping noisy developing very quick… at first Klaus thought it was our Courtesy and club flags giving in, but seconds after we realized that it was our Code 0 sail which had created an air-pocket on the top section which was blowing out although the bottom was locked and the sheets secured, within a minute the situation had developed and Kalinka was healing over while Klaus took a quick decision to cut the halyard as it had jammed in the attempt to lower the Code in controlled manner, within a few second we had gained control again and held our breath while the German was fighting getting his anchor lifted just as he dragged between our boats. Unfortunately, we had torn our Code 0 apart and will try to get it repaired when we reach Mallorca. The German gave up and went to sea in the bad weather (downwind though) while we again talked about how we could have helped him with our anchor without comprising our own safety. The wind calmed down around 23.00 hrs and we got a good night’s sleep.

 

#Postcard - 23/6 - 7/7

After 6 days stay in A Coruna it was time to move on. We met lots of people in A Coruna. f.x Gitte and Christoffer from S/Y Anne who were on their way home to DK from Carribean. We also spent got exercised quite a lot by walking along the beautiful coastline passing the lighthouse “Tower of Hercules” 

Klaus spent some time making the last part of the installation of the watermaker as A Coruna was the last time we would bunker potable water. 

We left A Coruna 23/6 and set sail at 8.00 hrs in the morning with the course set for Camarinas which we approached at 16.30 hrs same day and dropped the anchor in the bay in 30 knots of wind, not the best conditions for a good night sleep, despite we had the anchor alarms on. 

 

We left the anchorage 24/6 @ 07.30 hrs heading towards Boiro, passing Cap Finisterre with 10 knots speed and sun from clear skies. When shifting around the fishing rods, we accidentally hit the Epirb which released from its holder but luckily it landed on the swim platform and got stuck there until we could retrieve it. The passage on the river Arousa to Boiro was very nice with beautiful nature consisting of a mix of rocks, hills and small towns overall. We anchored up around 20.00 hrs and as there were only a few boats anchored we basically had the view of the white beach for ourselves. The next day we decided to launch the dinghy for the first time since we left Svendborg, it had been secured on the foredeck when passing the bay of biscay and on the swim platform for the rest. We spent the morning preparing the deck for paint by spartling and sanding but in the early afternoon the temperature reached 35 degrees and it was time to stop work and go for a swim on the beach where the water was warm and clear. The rest of the day was spent exploring the bay and its surrounding towns as well as the many Viveros (platforms for shellfishing). We talked with a local fisherman and his wife and they showed us the day's catch of white shellfish. Next day was spent relaxing and minor boatwork. 

 

We left Boiro on the 27/6 around 08.00 Hrs and were heading towards Baiona just outside the entrance to Vigo. The passage was beautiful with the mainland at Starboard side and lots of rocky islands on the portside. Local Spanish boats were anchored close to the rocks off these islands. We approached Baiona port at around 16.00 hrs and moored to a mooring buoy. The comments in the cruising app Navily we are using indicated that some of the buoys  were dragging and others had written they were free of charge to use… we ended up paying 20 Euros per night and did not drag. The next morning we replaced our bilge pump in the shower and afterwards we worked at the deck again, applying paint and quartz sand on the port side. In the afternoon we went for a walk in the town away from the harbour front where there was cosy and no tourists, later we also got exercised as we went for a long walk around the castle Torre do Principe. Next day was spent for a long walk and a nice dinner in the local Yacht Club where the prices were reasonable although Klaus ended up returning his plate as his fish was raw. 

 

We departed from Baiona 30/6 @ 07.00 hrs heading for Porto. The wind was warm and we could again change to summer dress. Our Code 0 sail served us well and we made good speed towards Leixoes port which we approached at 20.00 hrs. The Marine was very small but we were lucky to find a free berth. The next day we took bus 507 in front of the marina and direct to the old part of Porto. The bus ride took about 40 minutes and the bus driver was driving like he was crazy. We spent hours walking around in the hilly small streets looking at the houses and small shops. We crossed the Douro river by walking across the Luis 1st Bridge and continued to the top where we could enjoy the beautiful sight from South to North. After a few hours it was time to walk back and find a place to have lunch. The restaurants in the old town are small and most of them can only accomodate 6 to 10 persons and we found a small restaurant called “have a bite” where the owner Almando told us he grew up in Brazil but went to Portugal as both his parents were portuguese. He had converted the former barbershop to a small restaurant with only 3 tables. We were the only guests and got the table nearest to the street. Almando started wiping the already clean table again thereafter he left with the cloth and came back to move the vase while he rubbed his fingertips in the green  flower leafs and held up close to my nose, thereafter he repeated the scenario for Klaus, it smelled heavenly and Almondo said “ Don't Eat !”there after he disappeared again for 5 minutes, we could see he was spending the time starting the music from the little kitchen in the back of the restaurant. After 20 minutes we still had not ordered any food but it did not matter as the atmosphere was so special. Almondo returned again with a notebook with a clean sheet to take our order, however there was no menu card so Almondo decided what he would serve for us ! baked mushrooms with mozzarella and basil and thereafter a tapas board with smoked meat slices and local cheese served together with his own proudly made chutney consisting of red onions and brown sugar, all served with a bottle of local Vinho Verde, Espresso and portwine. The visit lasted for more than 2 hours and in that time a portuguese couple arrived and got the same treatment as us. We exchanged experiences and opinions regarding Covid 19 and Almando was very touched about the situation as it was his bread and butter. We left the restaurant full and happy with the relationship and experience we gained. Porto is special and can strongly be recommended. 

We left Leixoes 2/7 @ 07.00 hrs with the course set for Figuera do Foz, it was the first time since we left Denmark that the wind was Southerly and we were therefore motoring, as the Swiss sailor we met in Cherbourg said “ We are only doing Gentleman sailing” he meant downwind. We tried to call the port 3 times before we were lucky and got hold of the harbour master who confirmed they had a berth for us. The port is very small for our draft and the entrance is closed often due to wind and swell. We completed our docking at 17.00 hrs. 

We had decided the leave the next morning early as Figuera do Foz did not appear very interesting however when the alarm clock rang at 06.00 hrs the next day it was foggy and we decided to stay an extra day. As it was Saturday there was a big marketplace at the harbour front stretching more that 500 meters where the locals tried to sell their old stuff, basically the same as the antique markets we see in Denmark but much cheaper. 

 

We left Figuera do Foz 4/7 @ 07.00 hrs with the course set for Peniche further down the coast, on the way we passed Cabo do Nazare where the seabed has a gap where the depth changes from 50 to 500 meter quite close to shore and the area is known as the place with the highest waves in the world, although it was not so bad when we passed as the weather was nice, we did experience increased swell and Kalinka was rolling as we were motoring. 

We arrived at Peniche marina at around 16.00 hrs and were lucky to find a berth in the tiny marina. We had tried several times to contact the harbour master by phone and VHF and also learned that the harbour office was closed for the weekend when we arrived, so it was the cheapest stopover so far. A few hours later a brand new 56 foot X-Yacht moored alongside us and we offered Otto and Christian dinner. We had a cosy evening and Otto who is the Norwegian X-Yacht dealer explained that they were on their way to Cannes where the new boat should be presented at Cannes Boatshow. We got invited onboard for a tour and a glass of Portwine on his boat named Ten. 

 

We left Peniche the 5/7 at 06.00 hrs with the course set for Lisbon. The swell was still significant and we were rolling. We docked at Port Alcantara at 15.00 Hrs, had called several times but no reply so we just found a free berth, docked and went to the harbour office and informed the harbour master we would like to stay for up to 10 nights. The Harbour master immediately said that we could not get 10 nights but only 1…. disappointed we went back to Kalinka and did some more research and called Parque Narcoes marine a few miles down the river who confirmed they had an available berth for us. Boat documents were sent by email and we received a detailed instruction for docking the marina along with information of the areas, all very professional. The harbour fee in Doca Alcantara were 34 Euro 

The next morning we left Doca Alcantara at 10.00 hrs and sailed the few miles down river Tajo, called up the harbour master who came out and met us in his dinghy and guided us all the way through the harbour gates and into our slip where two other harbour crew were waiting to take our ropes. So far the best service we have received in a Marina ever.  

We spent the day doing the laundry, pickling the watermaker, measuring up our Genoa as we are in the process of ordering a new.

 

#Postcard - 31/5-19/6-2021

We released the mooring lines from Port of Svendborg 31/5 @ 10.00 Hrs with the course set for the Kieler Canal. Our Son Andreas surprised us half an hour later with a photo taken from our home address Skovsbostrand/Svendborg with the following text "It will be an expensive trip if you dont roll out the sails !" - However as there was no wind at all we motored all the way to Rendsburg half way through the Kieler Canal where we docked in the quietly and calm marina @ 21.00 hrs and paid the 19 Euro harbour fee. 

We left Rendsburg next morning @ 08.00 hrs with the course set for Cuxhaven. The timing had to be correct for this leg in order to have the sea current with us from Brunsbuttel to Cuxhaven. We went through the lock with good guidance from the lock master and sailed out in the Elb which was not as busy with ship traffic as we had expected although we did get some attention from a Maersk Ship who first gave us a honk with his horn... Iam turning to portside... however we did not pay too much attention as we were outside the buoyed traffic lane.... when he a few minuttes later honked his horn again and his bow was pointing directly at us, we realized that he was turning out of the shipping lane to anchor.... we had to make a 360 and go behind him :-) We approached Cuxhaven @ 19.00 Hrs and had completed the 54 Nm trip planned for the day. We stayed in Cuxhaven for 2 days and spend time pulling coax cable for our Iridium through our solar arch tubing and other small tasks. 2 days of harbour fee ended at 64 Euro. 

We left Cuxhaven the 3/6 with the course set for Ijmuiden in Holland - Klaus took the first night watch and experienced a lot of traffic and fog during this passage. We arrived the next day @ 23:30 and as it was dark and the chartplotter did not show the depth in the Seaport Marina, we decided to dock at the waiting pier in front of the lock. Next morning we found out there was plenty of water in the marina and we moved Kalinka to Seaport Marina. Harbour fees was 39 Euro pr day and facilities were good. 

Departure from Ijmuiden 6/6 @ 07.00 Hrs to fit the tide, we left with slight current against us which turned with us after approx 1 hour. We passed Calais the next day @ 11.00 hrs. Most of the passage through the English Channel was done in very dense fog and we were pleased with our new Radar which was really a good assistance together with AIS. We had however also periods with good visibility and had our first experience with a group of dolphins which followed us for half an hour before they dissapeared as quick as they arrived. About 30 Nm from Cherbourg the Radar alarm sounded and had discovered a non AIS target heading directly at us and 20 minuttes later the French Customs appeared out of the fog, called us up on the VHF and informed us they would launch their fast craft and pay us a visit. The visit of the costums took an hour as they were very thorough checking boat papers and the entire boat, they were however very friendly and we had a good talk about fishing mackerel and the most senior guy handed Klaus his customs badge from his lifejacket as a souvenir when they left. We approached Cherbourg @ 23.30 which was a bit later than expected due to heavy currents against us. The days is Cherbourg were wonderful with summer, sun and happy people on the piers. Harbour fees were 49 Euro / day.

 

Departure Cherbourg 12/6 @ 10.15 Hrs with a course set through the Alderney Race, our initial plan was to visit the channel islands however due to Corona restrictions we were advised to sail by. It was the first time Trine experienced the atlantic swell which was and overhelming sight. We  approached Camerat Sur Mer next day @ 18.00 Hrs where we dropped the hook in the bay after we had tried one of the mooring buoys which dragged, despite the Navily app had described the moorings as safe. We moved Kalinka to the marina the next morning. Camerat Sur Mer is a very cosy holiday destination with a lot of galleries, happy tourists and a lot of back packers stopping over. We spent a full day preparing food, sea-fastening, installed lifelines on deck and hoisted the dinghy on the deck and secured it. Harbour fee 34 Euro

 

Departure from Camerat Sur Mer 15/6 with course set for A Coruna, We had the current with us and passed Ile-de-Sein to starboard. Speed was recorded up to 11 Knots sailing downwind. We could again feel Kalinka riding on the atlantic swell and enjoined the smooth and sunny day where we later got a visit of a carrier pigeon which landed on our solar panels and stayed for an hour whereafter it was away for half an hour just to come back and rest for another few hours before it dissapeared again. We had dolphin visit several times where they approached us in groups of 25-30 each. Klaus had the night watch and with the route far away from shipping lanes, AIS and Radar Alarms, it gave him confidence to get some short naps of sleep during the night. On the second day of the passage the Radar suddenly showed large rain clouds and we could hear the thunderstorm around us, we started the engine and escaped from the thunder while we could see the lighting strikes around us. @ 04.00 hrs in the morning the wind picked up significantly to 40 Knots although the forecast had announced 20 knots.... The atlantic swell and the waves from the strong northerly wind was between 3,5 to 5 meter and were attacking Kalinka from starboard and the stern constantly wherefore Klaus had to handsteer from 04.00 Hrs in the morning until 20.00 hrs in the evening where we approaced A Coruna, on top of that it was raining heavily the whole day. It was blowing 30 Knots in the Marina when we docked but got good assistance from the Marina Crew who assisted with the mooring ropes and advised a good docking spot, a big applause the Marine Guys for being so helpfull despite the wind/rain conditions. @ 22.00 hrs we had a few Rum Toddys and celebrated our challenging passage.